Spring Lawn Care Tips From First Response Lawn Care
We thought we would share some Spring lawn care tips to help you prepare for the season. A great lawn in the heat of Texas takes commitment. Here a few ways to make sure you have a greener springtime!
Pre-emergent Weed Control
It is essential to start the season off right. Managing the growth of weeds early this season will help your lawn flourish and grow. Pre-emergent treatment is the best way to handle early weeds and undesirable additions to your lawn as opposed to pulling them after they appear.
Our fertilizing program uses a 7 step program to ensure your yard is healthy and the best in the neighborhood. We are licensed with the Texas Department of Agriculture Lic #450863. to assure you that we are the best at what we do.
Depending on your grass type, your thatch level in your lawn should be between ¼” to ½” in depth. If you have more than that, you will be susceptible to disease. When the thatch reaches a higher level than what’s right for it, then you will either have to invest in replacing the lawn or power raking the whole thing. To avoid over-enthusiastic thatch production, don’t over-fertilize, over water, underwater or cut your lawn too short. If de-thatching is necessary for your lawn, we offer services to help your grass recover this Spring.
You will need to supplement your lawn with watering. The best method is if you use an underground irrigation system. Since the average lawn will need about 45″ to 50″ of water during the year, a sprinkler will alleviate the need to water by hose. Using a properly maintained sprinkler system will be sure that your lawn is adequately watered. We encourage you to become familiar with any watering restrictions in your area and plan your watering schedule accordingly.
Core aeration is something that is overlooked by many homeowners. When we aerate your soil, it can pay for itself in the water savings alone. There are four reasons for aerating your lawn.
- Aeration fights soil compacting
- Aeration allows air to the grasses roots
- Aeration helps to control the thatch levels
- Aeration promotes new grass root growth in the area of the core hole
Grass needs nutrients to grow, to help maintain a root system which is healthy and tolerant to stress when the weather is hot. Fertilizing your lawn is also essential to keep diseases at bay and your grass stress-free. Because your lawn is an artificial environment not meant for the area you live in, it won’t survive without help. This is why the application of fertilizer with crucial nutrients is essential.
Depending on your grass type, the grass can grow faster or slower in Texas weather conditions. Mowing on a weekly schedule is important to keep the lawn healthy and maintained. Mowing every two to three weeks, for instance, will allow the turf to become stressed and start to thin out. This will increase the need to water and to fertilize.
Watering your lawn correctly and keeping it maintained is essential for a healthy, great looking lawn.
If you want a healthy, lush lawn all year, let’s get started! Call our Lawn Care experts at (214) 701-7622!
Seeing brown spots in your yard? We Texans live in a region with hot temperatures and high humidity, so you bet you may find your lawn infected with Brown Patch lawn disease.
Read below for some frequently asked questions regarding the lawn intruder and tips to get your lawn healthy again.
So, what is this disease?
Brown Patch lawn disease is a common and widespread problem caused by Rhizoctonia solani fungus. The disease can infect a variety of common turfgrasses but the most susceptible grass species include perennial ryegrass, tall fescue, and the bentgrasses.
Brown Patch can also become a problem to Kentucky bluegrasses in mid-to-late summer during extended periods of high temperature and humidity.
How do I know if my lawn has this disease?
The first step to identifying: Do you see spotting on your leaf blades? If you see spotting on your leaf blades—which can eventually bleed together to turn the entire leaf brown—suspect Brown Patch is invading your lawn.
More obvious signs are circular areas of brown and dead grass surrounded by a narrow, dark ring. Patches are typically irregular and can be quite large, as this disease can spread fast.
This spotting can take on different appearances depending on the characteristics of the grass it infects:
Closely mown grasses: Any grass you should cut short, like some Zoysias, will show circular rings of brown patches and an expanding gray ring on the outer edge—most noticeable when the grass is damp, especially in the early morning hours.
High-cut grasses: Grasses that are kept taller often exhibit circular or nearly circular brown areas, but without the visible details of gray exterior.
Tall fescue: Tall fescue varieties often don’t exhibit the characteristic circular patterns. Rather, the fungus will appear on scattered blades of grass, so that the whole lawn may seem a little “off,” with a tannish cast rather than the vibrant green you want to see.
Why is this showing up now?
Brown Patch thrives when hot weather and high humidity settle in during the summer months. Your yard can (and if you have it, most likely did) become infected during a period of cooler temperatures. The disease can take hold and develop well below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, but doesn’t spread and become apparent to the naked eye until temperatures and humidity levels rise. Dew, mist, or rain on leaf blades in these conditions can contribute to the rise of Brown Patch.
How can I get my lawn healthy again?
The fungus that causes Brown Patch lawn disease is present in many areas. Disease prevention is very difficult if the grass species is susceptible.
Proper watering in midday to prevent wet grass at night may be of some, but limited benefit. Proper mowing on a frequent basis to promote air movement and drying of the leaf blades may be of more benefit when battling Brown Patch.
Removing dew or guttation water that collects on the grass leaves each morning has proven effective as an aid in reducing brown patch. This removal can be achieved by mowing or by dragging a water hose across the area.
More tips for treating:
Use moderate amounts of nitrogenous fertilizer.
Fungicides can be effective if applied before the onset of the disease, but should only be used on high-value ryegrass or bentgrass turfs.
Don’t over- or under-fertilize your turf, as that can encourage Brown Patch.
Can I get help from a professional?
First Response Lawn Care specialists know exactly what your lawn needs and what changes you may need to make to achieve a lawn you’ll love. If you suspect your lawn is infected or you’re worried it may become so, give one of our specialists a call to set you up on a plan for a healthy lawn.
To schedule a consultation with one of our Lawn Treatment Specialists, call (214) 701-7622. You’ll be on your way to finding out how to remedy that sad, brown lawn, and rebuilding the healthy, green lawn you want.
First Response Lawn care Rockwall has your perfect concoction of chemical treatments for your lawn. We use effective and safe methods to eliminate grubs through long-lasting formulations. Our goal is not only termination, but also lawn pest prevention.
Grub control products are best applied in July, so they can impact grubs as soon as they hatch.
If you saw brown, dying patches in your lawn this Spring, chances are that you had white grubs. The cure for moving forward with a green lawn is a late-summer treatment.
The best time to treat for grubs is actually late summer, when grubs are small and more susceptible to insecticides.
White grubs are the larval stage of May or June beetles and masked chafers. Grubs are white, C-shaped with distinct, brown heads and three pairs of legs near the front end. They feed on dead organic matter and grass and plant roots. These are considered bad “bugs” since they feed on plant roots.
Adult May or June beetles are oblong, robust insects. There are many species in Texas, but most are shiny, reddish brown or dark brown, and three-quarters to 1 1/4 inches long. They are often incorrectly referred to as “Junebugs.”
Adult masked chafers resemble May beetles but are smaller and yellow brown in color. The Japanese beetle is often confused with June beetles, but Oklahoma does not have them as other states do.
May/June beetles have life cycles ranging from 1 to 3 years, but most in this area have a two-year life cycle. From April to September adults begin to emerge from the soil. Adults of most species are most common in May and June. They mate and the female lays 50 eggs in the soil.
Larvae hatch three to four weeks after eggs have been laid and feed on dead organic matter, later moving to the roots of plants. They move deeper into the soil in fall for winter. The following spring the larvae move back to the root area to feed.
Bottom line is that nobody wants grubs in their lawn feeding on their grass. Call First Response Lawn Care today and let’s get started on a lawn treatment that will eradicate those suckers!